Great White Shark Cage Diving

On our second-to-last day in South Africa, we got to mark another adventure off our bucket list, Cage Diving with Great White Sharks! We dove off the coast of Klansbaai, near Gansbaai, a town famous for its shark diving. After much deliberation, we went with a company called Great White Shark Diving. It cost about $185cdn each for the morning adventure, which we were happy to pay; this was one occasion we didn't think a bargain company would be the best choice.

We arrived at the office early in the morning where we got eggs, cereal, and coffee for breakfast. We were also urged to drink some ginger tea to combat seasickness prior to getting on the boat.

Our boat with the cage on the back. Oh ya, it looks shark proof

When it was time to go, we climbed onto the boat with about 15 other passengers and we were off to sea! About 20 minutes off the coast, the captain found a spot he figured was promising, and we were each given a wet suit to put on, and then subsequently a lolli-pop to fight the sea sickness we were all starting to battle.

Shark bait

The crew members threw some chum into the waters and we all waited with excitement for a shark to catch the smell of lunch. After about an hour of waiting a crew member yelled out excitedly that he saw a shark! The first 8 people clamored into the cage that had been attached to the side of the boat. We bobbed our heads above the water until one of the crew members told us to go down and look left. And there she was! An 8 foot female Great White Shark a few feet from the cage! Pretty incredible. After 20 minutes we got out of the ocean water as we were starting to get chilled, and the next group had their turn. From the boat, I actually got an almost better view of the shark as it glided through the water and chased the tuna head the crew was using as bait.

"You're looking the wrong way Michelle!"

We're gonna need a bigger boat.

We had our underwater camera with us and were lucky enough to catch the 2nd shark on video as he slowly swam by our cage eyeing up lunch. The divemaster told us he was a six to eight footer but from where we were  in the cage he looked to be about 20 feet and as menacing as anything that swims.   

By the end of the day we saw two great white sharks. We knew when we bought the tickets that there was never a guarantee of seeing sharks at all, so we felt extremely lucky.

Rule number 1: Keep toes and fingers inside the cage

The adventure finished off with a hot shower, lasagna lunch back at the office and a video slideshow created by one of the crew members. After overcoming our lingering sea sickness, Dad and I were off to Cape Town to enjoy our final night in Africa. It was still early in the afternoon and we had more sightseeing we wanted to do.

Sleeping with Elephants - Knysna Elephant Park

So far, South Africa had been incredible. Going into our third week, I didn't think it could throw anything at us that would be as memorable as the Kruger safari, visiting Jessica the Hippo, or climbing the Drakensburg, and yet, it impressed me again. About 5 hours outside of Cape Town, we stayed at Knysna Elephant Park. This park has housed and cared for orphaned elephants for over 20 years. The elephants that end up in the park are usually relocated animals, orphaned calves, elephants rescued from culls or ex-circus animals. Sometimes the animals become part of the resident herd, or are relocated to other parks depending on their needs.

View of the elephant fields from the balcony

We stayed one night in the park, sleeping in rooms so close to the elephant field you could very easily see them from the balcony. The rooms were designed in a sort of U shape with a common area in the middle that looked over the elephant boma (sort of a sleeping quarters for elephants). As evening drew nearer, I propped myself up on one of the couches with a book and watched as elephants slowly came into the boma to eat and sleep. I sat there for hours with a perfect view of the elephants, it was surreal. The lights are kept low in the boma to let the elephants sleep and there is no noise. All you can hear is the heavy, gruffy breathing of the elephants and occasional scuff of their padded feet on the floor. I was cuddled under a warm blanket on the leather couch with a cup of tea and I never wanted to leave.

Common area overlooking Elephant Boma

The next morning we had a small group tour with a wonderful guide. He lead our troop out into the field, walking past resident zebras with about as much interest in them as a Canadian would have for a crow back home.

Wild Zebras were just "extra" during the whole elephant extravaganza

With a bit of coaxing he was able to get us close to an elephant for pictures. It was made clear that the elephants were still wild, so when she wanted to walk away, we got out of her way and let her go.

That's the elephant on the left.

Little known fact; elephants have big heads

Closer to noon we bought a bucket of fruit and hitched a ride out to the back of the fields again. The elephants obviously knew we were coming, as no coaxing was required this time. Instead, the elephants instantly lined up behind a 20 foot long 'fence' and waited expectantly. With my bucket of fruit in hand I went up to the elephant, held out an apple, and the giant's long nose reached out and deftly picked the fruit out of my hand.

Little known fact No. 2; elephants are nosy.

God must have been in a good mood when he designed the elephant, because it is one of life's greatest joys to be up close to such a fascinating looking creature. There trunks are so long, so strong, and so agile! One elephant almost stole Dad's phone when he got a bit too close taking pictures. We were given tons of time to meet all the elephants, pet them, and take photos.

Noses like hoses

A close-up inspection of an elephant's ear

How could you not be happy working around elephants all day!

Almost stole the camera...but got a great photo

After the incredible morning, we went back to the lodge for breakfast and enjoyed our last few hours in the park, overlooking the fields and watching the wild elephants and zebras.

Bonus Elephant Park Cat

As much as we didn't want to leave, we had to make time back to Mossel Bay to our new AirBnB. 

Leaving Cape Town

After a few nights in Cape Town we were off, driving along the coast towards Gansbaai. We had a shark dive booked and were staying in the nearby town of Franksraal so we could meet at the shark dive early in the morning.

When you travel, you expect certain things to be memorable, iconic sites like the Taj Mahal, or sweeping landscapes. These are unforgettable memories that you carry with your when you arrive home. Sometimes however, gems of a country are discovered in simple things. That was our experience with our AirBnB hosts in Franksraal.

Fiona and her husband were an older couple and we were their first AirBnB guests. I think they were a little excited about having us as guests. When the power went out overnight they apologized over and over again and set us up with a generator, flashlights and offered food and wine; going far beyond the normal duties of an AirBnB host. The morning we left, Fiona's husband proudly showed us his refurbished train car he had created in the garage. They even gave us parting gifts of wine and a beautiful rare shell Fiona had recently found on the beach.

The view looking out of our AirBnb. One of our favourite accommodations on our trip, largely because of our wonderful hosts. 

The whole experience warmed our hearts and reinforced our positive view of the people in South Africa. Throughout our entire trip we were always greeted by friendly people. Multiple times we were offered rooms in  houses of people we had just met. The hospitality we encountered in SA was remarkable. We stayed with Fiona and her husband for just one night but they are one of the big reasons we want to go back.

While staying in Franksraal, we had news that our shark dive was cancelled due to weather. No problem, we rescheduled for the end of our trip and headed off to Mossel Bay. But first! A stop at L'Agulas the southernmost tip of Africa and the dividing line of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans.

From here home was about 16,000 km away, or roughly 4 airports and 3 flights.

It was a little awe-inspiring to stand at the very tip of Africa looking out at the wind-whipped ocean(s) and then to turn around and realize that the entire continent of Africa and beyond to Europe lies in front of you. We were the farthest away from home either one of us had ever been and it felt a little humbling.  It's a big planet and to see it from a different perspective and to try to put yourself into that perspective really challenges you.

We spent our time walking up and down the trails, collecting shells and just reveling in the wonder of it all. We enjoyed it immensely.

Nothing in front of us but all of Africa and Europe.

Shells?!? When are we going to get to the shark-diving!??

Michelle's excitement at spotting a Canadian flag was palpable.

The area from Gaansbai all the way through to Knysna is called the Garden Route for the beautiful scenery and landscapes. Time after time we would go around a corner or up over a low hill and a new stunning landscape would be laid out in front of us. It was hard to put in context the beauty of the scenery mixed with the violent race struggles that South Africa is dealing with. We never experienced any problems throughout our trip be we were always aware of riots and protests happening within the country. It seems that South Africa has such promise and potential for a bright future but is being held back by corruption, government incompetence and political interference.

Mile after mile of gorgeous scenery.

Our next stop was the tourist town of Mossel Bay and a night in a converted train car. In the summer Mossel Bay is crowded with tourists there to enjoy the warm waters and cool ocean breezes. In winter Mossel Bay is much quieter and less crowded. We stayed at the Santo's Express which, other than the previously mentioned trains cars has a very nice restaurant and lounge. What it doesn't have is central heating or, largely, any kind of heating. Not in the train car, not in the restaurant, not in the lounge. Now, we're Canadians so we are constitutionally forbidden to complain about cold in front of any foreigners; we're made from sterner stuff!  Well, I can tell you that we have nothing on the South Africans when it comes to facing the cold. Michelle and I huddled up in the lounge to watch a World Cup soccer match. We wore virtually everything we had with us including gloves and toques and all around us are South Africans braving the cold with barely a jacket. 

Snugly, though not warmly, tucked into the lounge at Santo's Express.

The next two days would find us at the Knysna Elephant Lodge for an up close experience with the massive animals we had first seen 2 weeks prior. We were hoping for a relevant, positive experience and what we got was so much more.